THE TOP END

We are at Big Horse Creek in a national park campground, about 10 km West of Timber Creek, still in the Northern Territory. We are only about 200/300 metres from the mighty Victoria River.  It's a big river, one of the biggest (if not the biggest) in Australia and although we are a long way from the mouth, it's still very wide out here in front of us, and full of crocs - I've been on a boat trip previously from Timber Creek and saw plenty.

There are three brothers (in three vans) camped in front of us from Port Lincoln, fishing for barramundi (and getting them).  They told us they have been wading across on to a rocky point and noticed a croc about 3m long watching them! They were also surprised, they said, to see the water they had waded across swelling, even though the tide was still running out strongly. (That's not unusual in a big river as it swells up under the surface run-out for quite a while at the start of the make, and there are big tides up here!)

We walked down to the boat ramp yesterday and I was talking to a fellow putting a big boat in (175hp outboard). He said they were off about 60 km downstream, to where you meet the saltwater, to fish for barra, BIG barra he said (and I could see a bundle of crab traps stacked up on the back of the boat as well).  They looked local, rather than campers.

This is the second time we have camped at Big Horse. I thought before it must have been named after a particularly large horse, until I noticed that we crossed a signposted "Little Horse Creek" just before here.  I guess there's a story that explains that! It probably could be called the Boab Tree camp, they are everywhere around us, including some monsters.

I am sitting up early in the van. It's 6.40 am and still quite dark. We are leaving here this morning and when we get to the WA border a bit less than 200 kms further West, we turn our clocks back one and a half hours. That should get us into Lake Argyle before lunch, to get a site in the caravan park - there are so many people on the road you have to be early there. Best get cracking - I will continue this later.

Sunday 18 June 2017

Resuming this - we are now in Kununurra WA. We left Big Horse Creek at 8.30a and arrived here at 11.30a (NT time), but had to reset our clocks back one and a half hours. consequently everything seems out of whack! We elected to give Lake Argyle a miss this time. Anyway, lets get this done, up to leaving the NT.

While taking our break at Big Horse I cleaned up a couple of unfinished paintings, one of them of the Darling River at Kinchega National Park -

In front of where we camped, where the Menindee Creek runs into the Darling. This was a great fishing spot - the boat belongs to a local bloke called "Tex" who came back there fishing and bagging out, days in a row.

Back to the order of things. Devils Marbles was our first stop after Alice Springs-

M's photo - she called this a "Cheese Formation" - don't know whether that's a geographical term or a lyrical description - nice cloud formation!

Narelle might recognise this, the same rock and white gum that got me in years ago, but I took a different perspective this time and nearly got blown way - I had to peg my paint box and sun brolly down!

This was something different at a rest area along the way after the Devils Marbles. It's a satellite dish with a red post with a little platform on it to put your mobile phone and get reception for a call on hands-free!  We saw a number of these in rest areas along the way in the NT.

Sattelite reception for your mobile!

After passing North of Three Ways on the Stuart Highway, we stayed three nights at an old cattle station called Banka Banka - this place figured prominently in Tom Cole's book "Hell, West and Crooked" and he was a part-owner at one time, when he was buffalo and crocodile shooting further north. I found it so interesting as I have read all of his books repeatedly

View from the hilltop just behind the homestead, close to sunset.  We stayed 3 nights ansd there were lots of rigs stayingt there every night. The line you can see just beyond the buildings and vans etc is the Stuart Highway - quite close.

The old original mud-brick homestead.  It's quite low at the back, especially.  You have to duck your head to walk under.

We walked out from the camps to this waterhole and were gobsmacked at the beauty of it

I have got used to wearing my nikon on my belt.  I'm hardly ever without it !

This quite large "drum" redback meets you just inside the gate - the place is not very well lit up, eithe

Look closely - this is a Bower Bird's bower, and he gathers white things to decorate it up here, not blue as we see at home.  This is close among the campsites at Elsey.

Time to turn left at Katherine and head for Western Australia ..

... but not before a swim in the Katherine Hot Springs, just down over the back of our caravan park, running out of the hillside down into the Katherine River - and they were very warm indeed.

 






So there we are, after a few words from Marilyn (below) we will sign off for this one and report again probably in a month after our Kimberley Odyssey cruise adventure.

M's Say (unabridged)

Now for the real goss..on how Marilyn and Ron are surviving in an 11' van travelling this big, wide brown, green beautiful land.  Well, to be honest at first, it was a bit difficult.  We were both a bit stressed getting away making sure all our jobs and commitments were finalised.  Thankfully we had about 5 days at Peters in Port Macquarie, checking the systems, repacking and resting.

One of us likes repacking and finessing far more than the other.  So the other worries that this said person isn't getting enough rest and relaxation.  The other side of the coin is that in such small spaces, we have to be very tidy and meticulous, so after much discussion!!!!!  and prayer, the other has come to realise that in this case it is really a blessing, and the said person recognises their need to rest and relax more.

We do have to watch that we don't either travel too far in one day or not stay for 2 or 3 days at least once a week in one spot.  Fatigue is the enemy of patience and kindness with words.  It's been a real learning curve for both of us and its been great really to have achieved a new patience and kindness recognising that each of us is different with diverse space and time needs.There is also a certain amount of stress keeping a new rig going, remembering to do the repetative tasks each time we start a new journey and stop from the journey. We both have forgetful moments and have learned not to castigate ourself or give the other a hard time,

One of our newest innovations that starts the day in a relaxed way si that Ron gets up and makes us both a cup of tea which we have in bed and do not get up till it warms up enough to get up. (Although not in W.A 2 hours behind NSW) we can get up at 6.00.  We praise God every day for many things, but the one we give thanks for repeatedly is our bathroom space.

Ron sets up a great camp outside whether its one night or many (while I get all the systems going inside when we camp). If its several nights we really spread out as you have seen in our previous photos. Our relaxation spaces move with the sun and wind, so sometimes we have a back patio, side patio or front patio.  If the ground is messy, Ron puts down a floor outside the van to keep the dirt out of the van and he very diligently weeps this several times a day.

Keeping all our devices and fridges going is a quite a task and one that is monitored regularly.  Phone and internet service is in most towns and at random spots along the highway (at least on the Stuart Highway) in rest areas (see picture).  We really only go into the towns to stay if we need to do a blog, buy fuel or groceries and go to the dump point.

So far we have camped more in National Parks, than free camps or Caravan Parks we the best paining spots are in NPs.

Now you might wonder what Marilyn is doing apart from delicious meals in the Shuttle Chef and Weber and enjoying the processes very much. Our fridge and freezer enable me to cook anything really and the shops are much better out here than they were even 5 years ago  I've made bread a few times when we have stayed longer than the shop bread and wraps last.  It's been quite fun and we've enjoyed the results.

Apart from that I sit quietly and watch the birds come and go in the early morning  and evening and through the day.  I enjoy identifying the plants around the camp and beside the road travelling.  I ponder, sometimes paint, reflect and write story poems, not necessarily in that order.  I really enjoy the longer stays where each day just evolves of its own accord.  Have enjoyed the various walkd that are on offer in the National Parks, swimming occasionally but have not exercised as religiously as I have ready everyday

We've been reading "Where Song Began" by Tim Low (about birds) and "First Footprints" by Scott Cane.  Both books are quite dense so we intersperse them with lighter tomes.  We are currently listening to the Saltwater Band album "Djarridjarri which we are both enjoying. We love our blue tooth speaker and we play our downloaded music from our phones.  A fellow traveller (who Ron knows from the Gloucester Art Society) downloaded Richard Fidler's conversations onto a stick and we listen to those as well.  Do not miss the TV at all.

You might also know that I am the "Sequence Queen" and I'm about to learn Jackpot Poker using Sequence buttons for money.

We have really enjoyed the many conversations with other travellers, comparing all aspects of our rigs, camping spots, the way things are done in other countries, attitudes to refugees and the environment in Europe  and housing - small houses the go in Europe.  We have exchanged fishing tales, recipes and just reveling tin the wonder and beauty of this land that allows such freedom and safety for all who travel.

We've (mostly me) have met some very plucky women travelling alone.  One 80+ who has been travelling for 20 years in various motorhomes since her husband passed away. Another lady about my age in a 4WD and stretcher swag who had just done the  Canning Stock Route with friends after wanting to do it for 20 years or more.  She was travelling on her own now.  Another pair of white haired, very wrinkly ladies arrived in a small RV, set up their stretcher tent, went for a walk in the gorge, had a swim hung washing on the line, cooked basically, slept and left before we woke up next morning.  There have been lots of female backpackers in Mauis, Apollos, Britz or bought vehicles, who come in dome tents and basic gear, all facing the same challenges and learning curves that Ron and I share together, all having great fun and loving the welcome that Australians give.

We haven't been bothered by wriggly or crawling fauna much, although we have seen two big snakes on the road, missing both.  Apparently others have seen snakes in some of the campgrounds we have been in but we haven;t seen them.  We did experience lots of bugs and burrs at one particular free camp early on, but we are more careful now where we camp not disturbing the locals by sweeping away their homes or putting a covering over them.  We've hear a few dingoes which is nice.  The road kill has been far less than we have noticed before and we are hoping that because of the rains there is lots of feed on the plains and the kangaroos don't need to come to the road for the green pick.

We are looking forward to our 4WD drive tour into the Bungle Bungles on 22nd June and Odyssey Cruise on 1st July.  Meanwhile its into Kununurra to do a bit of shopping, charger for the batteries in the car, printing of drawings and pictures from Mark's family to put on our cupboard and a swim at The Grotto.

Spoke to work friends on Saturday.  Hunter TAFE has lost the AMEP and SEE contracts, so it looks like I am really retired from TAFE. How sad.  They are all looking for work.

Missing you all and wishing you were here.  M xx

THE RED CENTRE

Our last blog was when we left Kinchega National Park (the Menindee Lakes on the Darling River NSW)  on 1 May 2017 - that's a whole month ago, as I sit in the caravan again at Alice Springs doing this blog on 1 June 2017!  Sorry if we've made people wonder what became of us, but so much has happened.

After leaving Broken Hill and crossing into South Australia, we free-camped at various places, stopping for supplies when necessary, through Port Augusta and then due-north on to the Stuart Highway. That felt like we were getting into the desert country, drier and warmer,but so pretty.

The photos below are from the first of these camps north of Port Augusta:

Late afternoon, about 100 metres back from the highway. There were 3 or  4 other rigs there and we were yarning with the people in the nearest, as you do!

Marilyn, enjoying the last of the sun, beside the Ladybug

Sleep time, well away from the road, but not on our own

 The trip northwards continued well, some of the rest areas we chose were okay, nothing special but our comfort was hooked on behind and there are lots of people out there travelling like this.  We called into Coober Pedy for water, fuel and groceries (fresh fruit was scarce but some nice freshly baked bread was snapped up when we found that.

We crossed into the Northern Territory and our target was a rest area on the way in to Uluru that I knew well, Kernot Range. John Marsh will recognise the place from these photos:

Remember the campfire between the two vans, John? This was taken from the top of the hill where Jill wandered off with the book on wildflowers.

After we had run ourselves ragged around Uluru and Kata Juta, we came back to this same spot for a couple of day's break

This is part of the walk around the base of Uluru  - about 14 kilometres all up

Mutitjulu permanent waterhole near the base of the "Rock". A lot of water drains into this in heavy rainfall

This one for Charlie and Max - an aboriginal guide told me on a visit years ago that the markings clearly visible here represent the Rainbow Serpent

Part of our walk at Kata Juta (The Olgas)

These two at our rest break back at Kernot Range - The Willie Wagtail seems to be saying "Come on  .. time to go!)

To cut a long story short, after we left Uluru we headed straight to Alice Springs. We had 8 days straight at the Macdonnell Range Caravan Park (which included 3 days for me to get over a tummy bug, which I think was a "free extra" from the park!).  On my feet again, we headed for Ormiston Gorge in the West MacDonnells, which was a target destination for me, and spent 10 days camped there, painting just about every day. Some of the scenes below will show why.

Sturt's Desert Rose-  Northern Territory's floral emblem

In the camp - complete with tarp on the red sand floor!

I have done more, Bob and Terry, but I did get to sign the top one!

So here we are back at The Alice, and heading North tomorrow.  Lots of untold stories for the past month, but too weary for now. I shall try to follow up with another blog soon.

Ron and Marilyn

The Kinchega Sojourn

Here we are, just after dawn in a rest area across the border into South Australia on the Barrier Highway.  It's sun-up and I'm sitting up in bed looking out across a wide expanse of plains with emus, kangaroos and the occasional patch of sheep, competing for the fresh pick after the rain that has been through lately.  Well, at least we saw all that activity yesterday after leaving one of the best camps we've experienced, Kinchega National Park on the Darling River, near the Menindee Lakes and then travelling back through Broken Hill for supplies and whatever.

Below is a view of our campsite on the Darling, at the junction with Menindee Creek running into it.

We stayed at Broken Hill for 4 days, waiting for the national park to re-open after some heavy rain the week before. The dirt roads in the park become impassable after heavy rain.

That's our camp.

And this is after another night of rain, the second night after we got there. You can see I've brought the X-Trail in closer to the van door awning and inserted a ridge-pole under the Darchie awning to give it some run-off.  I had the canvas floor down over what was dirt and became mud (I had to dig a small moat round it!)

We've dried out and got into the fishing and yabbies.  That's our campfire in the concrete fire-pit provided and M with the poetry pad.  You can see in the background a vehicle belonging to a local, named "Tex" - that's all he gave us by way of a name, but he gave us lots of good information about the fishing there.

And later in the night a taste of yabs cooked over the campfire:

That's our view down the Darling:

The work never lets up, though. That's me chopping the firewood

 and on the right working on the fishing gear (that river is full of snags!)

With that extra rain, it turned out that the park was closed again - with us penned in.  Not a problem, though.  We were happy fishing and enjoying the place, no-one around, just the birds, those old River Redgums and the Darling River flowing by. I did exert myself a bit and got out the paintbox.

When the roads became passable again, we visited the old historical woolshed further around in the park:

The photo of the old steam whatever-it-was is for John M.  Congratulations, John on the success of the train conference over Easter.

Back to the fishing - mainly M's exploits:

M's first yellow-belly, then, her third (that tackle box is 450mm wide)

"...which way to the river??"

M:   I'd hoped to get away from politics on our travels, but it creeps up on you.  On our drive along the Darling through Menindee I noticed all the derelict grape vines.  Most had their trunks sawn off.  There were still a few producing along the river but those away from the river were long gone and unproductive.  It finally dawned on me that these were the Menindee Seedless grapes that we rarely see in shops now.  Once they heralded summer and my family loved them. I'm not sure why we don't see them much now but a series of large white crosses along the road to Menindee Lakes lookout told a story.  On the crosses were the letters "R I P" with the MDBA Murray Darling Basin Authority being the cause. It seems the flora, fauna and grapes have suffered because of political decisions that gave water to the upper Darling leaving little left for the lower Darling producers.  The locals are very upset about their lake and water supply and the river now.  We thought the river was beautiful although the banks were very high.  In full capacity it must have been spectacular........Don't want to sadden the blog.  Our travelling is fantastic, but this is also the reality for other  Aussies trying to make a living in this area.

Just loved Kinchega Nat Park and the Darling and camping alongside it.  Was a dream come true for me - the old trees with lots of hollows for birds....the enormous Whistling Kite nest that we could see and the sound of the pair calling to each other as they swooped down over the river.Majestic and breath-taking!  Ron makes a great camp, so organised, neat and practical for our every need.  He didn't do so well in the fishing because he was mostly rerigging our lines.  There were lots of snags.  We will go again for a longer time next year.  Fantastic painting spot.  The light and colour were inspiring.

Finally the eight very special days came to an end and we had to press on.  The photo below shows our campsite up on the high river bank, overlooking this lovely spot.

The Big Loop again ... The Ladybug Loop 2017

Time to go ... dawn at Sancrox, near Port Macquarie, looking out the front window of the van on Wednesday 12 April, 2017.  We helped son Pete clean up after his 50th birthday party held around the fire pit, ringed by many of the guest's camps, on his property, There were somewhere upwards of 140 guests, many camped on the property like we were. It was then on the road in the Ladybug!

Some of these first few days have been a bit torrid - we returned south down the Pacific Highway, swapped a few things at home, things we could do without and a couple of things we forgot, then headed West on the Golden Highway. The first stay was for a couple of days at a free camp in Jerry's Plains, right on the edge of town (very popular with travelling caravanners and campers).

That was too easy - we weren't getting West quickly enough, so it was on to Merriwa by Saturday night so we could get to church for the Easter Day service the next day, pressed on to Dunedoo and turned off the Golden Highway there with the intention of bypassing Dubbo and stopping at a free camp we knew by the river at Mendooran.

We decided at Mendooran that we should go on a bit further towards Gilgandra before nightfall, then via Warren and back to the Mitchell Highway at Nevertire ... renewal of lesson number one in navigating - take your time and get it right!  We missed the Gilgandra turn at Mendooran and veered back Southwest towards Dubbo!  By the time we worked that out we had to find an alternative camp. We got lucky then and found a Conservation Area by the Macquarie River called Terramungamine.

(The lower picture is of aboriginal sharpening grooves in rocks by the river. This area has great significance for the local people)

We were back on track the next day heading West. The pictures below (in order) are of our camps between Nyngan and Wilcannia, and then of the Darling at Wilcannia (Note: You can enlarge the view of any of these by clicking on them).

That middle one we called the BB camp - Bugs and Burrs!

Wet weather then set in, stopping us from going down to Menindee (Kinchega NP) so we have been doing it easy in a van park at Broken Hill for 3 nights - hence the photos below from our visit today to the sculptures in stone on a hilltop a few kilometres outside of town

The roads have re-opened in Kinchega National Park, so we are off again in the morning (Sunday 23/4/17).   More news down the track.

... Ron and Marilyn